It can be annoying and worrisome when your washing machine gets stuck on the spin cycle and won’t stop. You anticipate that the cycle will end quickly, but instead the machine seems to be spinning indefinitely, leaving you waiting.
Unbelievably, this issue is more frequent and affects all washing machines, regardless of age or brand. It could be a straightforward problem that you can resolve on your own, or it could be a sign of a more serious malfunction that needs to be fixed by a professional.
This post will discuss potential causes for your washing machine’s spin cycle stuck as well as solutions to help you fix the problem. Restarting your laundry routine can be facilitated by identifying the cause, whether it’s a small glitch or an indication of a more serious issue.
| Possible Cause | Solution |
| Unbalanced load | Stop the machine, redistribute the clothes, and start the spin cycle again. |
| Drainage issues | Check the drain hose and filter for blockages, then clean them out. |
| Malfunctioning motor | Turn off the machine, let it rest, and restart. If the issue persists, consider professional repair. |
| Control board error | Unplug the machine for a few minutes, then plug it back in to reset the system. |
How to stop a "mad" device?
What should be done if the drum cannot be stopped by the automatic machine because it is stuck in spin? Such "crazy" spinning at high speeds may cause the unit to overheat and cause bearing failure. As a result, you should turn off the washing machine as soon as possible. But how can you do that in a safe way? This is something you must do. Hit the "Start / Pause" button first. The drum’s rotation should then start to slow down. Therefore, the "centrifuge" will come to an abrupt stop after a short while.
Pulling the machine’s power cord out of the socket will de-energize it if using the button to turn it off is ineffective.
While the machine is obviously at risk from such an action, leaving it running with a rotating drum for an extended period of time is equally unsettling. Consequently, immediately unplug the gadget from the power source.
Why this malfunction occurred?
In a single cycle, the washing machine completes numerous tasks. It opens the inlet valve after filling the tank. As the powder and water combine, the engine starts spinning the drum. Following the completion of the pre-wash, the machine empties the used liquid, reloads, and uses detergent from a different tray compartment.
At the end of the main wash, the dirty water is drained again, and clean water is collected for rinsing. The final stage of the cycle is spinning. This is where the failure occurs in our situation. For some reason, the machine cannot work normally, freezing in the process. You will be lucky if the faulty machine displays a system failure code on the display, informing the user which unit has failed. But it happens that the error is not displayed, and you have to look for the cause of the malfunction yourself. In such a situation, logic and knowledge of the device of an automatic washing machine will help. To begin with, it is worth excluding trivial user errors that can lead to the impossibility of spinning. Among them:
- overloading the machine;
- washing one, too voluminous item;
- insufficient filling of the washing machine;
- selection of a program that does not provide for spinning;
- getting a foreign object into the tank. A bra bone, invisible pin, nail or other thing can “jam” the centrifuge, preventing the equipment from “accelerating” the drum to the desired speed.
An unbalanced drum results from the laundry getting bundled up into a tight lump in an overloaded machine. Furthermore, if the "centrifuge" is in this scenario and begins to spin rapidly, the heavy lump might interfere with the drive mechanism’s regular operation. Consequently, the machinery immediately halts the cycle, freezes, and bides its time until the extra clothing is taken off.
When the machine has few things loaded, a similar scenario might occur. Such a violation is readily detected by modern washing machines, which pause the spin. Occasionally, an object stuck in the gap between the drum and the tank will cause the washing machine to malfunction. It’s critical to remove the object as soon as possible in this scenario because it may cause the drum to "wedge" and harm the plastic container, which could cause the machine to leak.
Once the aforementioned explanations have been ruled out, you will need to look into a technical issue. You will need to take the machine apart in parts in order to identify the "weak spot." You are capable of doing it on your own. We will inform you of the units that frequently experience malfunctions that result in the washing machine freezing during the spin cycle.
Your washing machine may become unbalanced, have a clogged drain, or have a malfunctioning control board if it becomes stuck on the spin cycle and won’t stop. You can troubleshoot the issue and decide whether a professional repair or a simple fix is required by understanding the cause.
Bearing unit and drive
Broken bearings are the most common cause of issues with drum rotation. In this case, there may be a lot of play in the "centrifuge," the automatic machine hums loudly and produces a grinding sound while operating.
The machine freezes because the broken bearings make it difficult for the drum to rotate. As a result, the machine cannot spin at the necessary speed.
It is preferable to take the old machine to a workshop or purchase a new one if you do not want to repair it. You can perform the repairs on your own if additional costs are not covered by the plans. It takes a lot of time and effort to replace bearings; it’s not an easy task. First things first, replacement parts must be bought. They have to fit a certain washing machine model. The washing machine must then be almost entirely disassembled in order to remove the tank.
It’s advantageous if your "home assistant" has a removable tank. After that, all you have to do is cut it in half, open up the drum, remove the old bearings, and insert the new ones while making sure the seal is replaced. The order of assembly for the machine is reversed.
The unit will require more time to repair if it is cast. The plastic is first cut along the weld with a hacksaw, and after that, the seal and bearings are replaced. The tank’s tightness will be restored if you use a silicone moisture-resistant sealant when joining the two halves.
Examine the machine’s operation right before it freezes if the bearings are in good condition but the spin is not executed. Make sure to check the drive belt if you hear a faint whistle and the drum rotates at a reduced speed. The rubber "slips" along the pulley when it is stretched, which lowers the speed. To inspect the belt, you must:
- de-energize the machine;
- turn off the water supply tap;
- remove the top panel of the machine;
- remove the back wall of the case by unscrewing the screws that secure it.
Examine the drive belt. In case of damage, swap out the rubber. To carry out this:
- remove the old belt from the pulley;
- pull the new rubber first onto the engine pulley, then onto the drum "wheel";
- assemble the body of the washing machine in reverse order.
Naturally, it would be wise to check the pulleys themselves right away to see if they are distorted. Special consideration needs to be given to the drum "wheel." The drive belt will suffer damage and wear out if there is even a tiny burr or a curvature that is noticeable.
Engine and speed sensor
The tachometer and electric motor will be inspected next. The collector frequently loses power as a result of worn brushes. The machine stops spinning because the "weakened" motor cannot spin the drum at high speeds. To examine the brushes in an electric motor, you should:
- de-energize the washing machine;
- close the shut-off valve responsible for the water supply;
- unhook the top cover of the machine by unscrewing the two bolts holding it;
- remove the back panel of the case;
- drop the drive belt from the pulleys;
- disconnect the wiring from the motor. It is better to take a photo of the connection diagram of the contacts in advance, so as not to get confused during reassembly;
- unscrew a couple of bolts securing the motor;
- remove the motor from the case;
- unscrew the small screws located on the sides of the motor. They hold the carbon brushes;
- inspect the electric brushes, see how worn they are.
It is necessary to replace the collector motor’s brushes in pairs, even if one carbon rod is entirely intact.
If the problem is not in the worn brushes, diagnose the tachogenerator. The Hall sensor is checked with a multimeter. The tester should be switched to ohmmeter mode and measure the resistance of the part. Normally, the device screen should display a value of about 60 Ohm. Next, the multimeter is switched to the voltage detection mode. When measuring the current at the tachogenerator terminals, you need to scroll the engine with your free hand. The reading on the screen should be approximately 0.2V. The tacho sensor monitors the engine speed. Having identified a malfunction of the element, it should be replaced. Otherwise, you will not be able to avoid problems with the spin cycle.
When your washing machine becomes stuck on the spin cycle, it’s usually the result of a troubleshooting issue that can be resolved. A good place to start would be to check the load balance, make sure the drain system is clear, and reset the machine.
Occasionally, the issue may be more complicated, such as when a motor or sensor wears out. To prevent additional harm in these situations, it is best to refer to the handbook or get expert assistance.
Many of these problems can be avoided by giving your washing machine regular maintenance and using it carefully. Monitoring the performance of your machine will enable you to identify issues early on and increase its longevity.
