Repair of the heating element of the Bosch dishwasher

Although a dishwasher is a reliable kitchen ally, a broken heating element can cause daily disruptions. This tiny but crucial component is in charge of drying and heating the water so that your dishes are clean and ready to use.

It might be necessary to replace or fix the heating element if your Bosch dishwasher isn’t heating up correctly. Thankfully, it’s not as difficult as it seems. If you have a few basic tools and knowledge, you can fix your dishwasher on your own without having to hire an expert.

You can save time and money by following this guide, which will walk you through the steps of diagnosing and fixing the heating element. Let’s get started and restore your dishwasher to its optimal function of effectively cleaning your dishes.

We disassemble the machine and remove the heating element

With a Bosch dishwasher, purchasing and installing a new heater is simpler. But the cost of the problem will be very high. As a result, many consumers choose to fix the dishwasher’s heating element in order to save money.

In contemporary Bosch dishwashers, the recirculation pump and heating element are housed in the same housing.

You must remove the dishwasher’s recirculation pump in order to access the heater. You will need to take the dishwasher body apart almost entirely in order to disassemble the heating element. You must have the following equipment on hand:

• TORX T20 screwdriver;
• TORX T15 "star" screwdriver;
• 17 mm wrench;
• Phillips screwdriver;
• pliers;
• soldering iron.

Now that the tools are ready, you can start disassembling the Bosch dishwasher. Take the device’s power cord out of the outlet to de-energize it first. Next:

• disconnect the machine from utilities (water supply and sewerage);
• open the dishwasher door, remove all the dish baskets from it;
• unscrew the bolts that secure the dishwasher to the kitchen unit (they are located on the side walls of the washing chamber);
• close the dishwasher door;
• remove the lower false panel of the furniture set;
• use a 17 mm wrench to unscrew the legs of the dishwasher so that the body of the machine goes down;
• remove the machine from the furniture;
• unscrew the garbage filter located at the bottom of the dishwasher bin;
• remove the filter unit, soak up the water in the opened hole with a dry cloth;
• dismantle the decorative cover of the door opening mechanism;
• remove the screws securing the side false panel of the dishwasher, put it aside;
• pull the tensioner ropes of the door opening mechanism and remove them from the mechanism;
• turn the dishwasher over to the other side, also remove the false panel and tensioners;
• turn the machine upside down;
• unscrew the two screws securing the lower false panel of the dishwasher, located in the front of the case, remove the part;
• using pliers, loosen the clamp on the filler pipe and disconnect the hose;
• unhook the panel that secures the drain and filler hoses from the body;
• disconnect the Aquastop connector;
• unhook the Aquastop float switch at the bottom of the dishwasher;
• remove the lower part of the dishwasher body by releasing the latches;
• loosen the water and sewer hoses;
• disconnect the contacts from the circulation pump;
• unhook all the pipes from the pump;
• remove the circulation pump.

It is a good idea to take pictures while working to help you with the reassembly process. Because the recirculation pump is well "hidden," disassembling it requires a lot of work. Seeking assistance from a specialist is preferable if you realize that you are incapable of handling things even at this point.

Disassembling the circulation pump and checking the heating element

There are multiple indicators that indicate the dishwasher’s heating element is malfunctioning. First off, the dishwashing machine is not very effective. Secondly, cutlery won’t get dry. It is advisable to have the heater checked if such "symptoms" are noticed.

A heater failure is also indicated by the E1 error; the code E01, F1, or F01 may be displayed, depending on the PMM Bosch model.

The pump is now prepared for diagnostics. The Bosch dishwasher recirculation pump is made up of two sections that are latch-connected to one another along its perimeter. The heating element is in one of them. This portion of the structure will require more work.

The heating element needs to be checked next. A multimeter is used for testing the heating element. The resistance measurement mode needs to be selected on the device.

Subsequently, the heater’s resistance is measured. The multimeter probes are applied to various terminals in turn. The resistive resistance between the power contacts should be roughly 24 Ohm, given that the heating element’s power is only about 2 kW.

Between grounding and any power contact, there should be no resistance.

We can discuss a break when there is no resistance between the power contacts. Examine the tracks of the heating element close to the terminal block. It will be obvious to the unaided eye if one of them has burned out.

Soldering the track will suffice during the repair. But it’s not that easy; the heating element’s metal and plastic protective covers conceal the soldering area. Thus, the following will be required:

• with a metal drill, with a diameter of 3.5 mm, remove the rivets on the steel casing;
• release the heating element from the metal casing.

The entire makeup of one component of the circulation pump is depicted in the figure below:

A ring element with multiple tracks makes up the heater. There will be more work done on it. You will need to solder the heating element in order to get it working again. This is something you can accomplish on your own. We will instruct you on how to fix the component.

Soldering the heating element

The goal of fixing the heater is to remove the insulating layer from its tracks and solder a new conductor to that location to establish contact again. You’ll need sandpaper for this. A portion of the heating element’s top coating is carefully removed with its assistance.

Sandpapering a ruler is advised for convenience of use. It is preferable to use paper that is one step higher than zero. The top insulating layer of the track should then be removed.

It is very challenging to remove the insulation from the heater tracks. The task could take ten to fifteen minutes and involve some effort. Now that the place is clean, you can proceed.

To repair the connection between the contacts, solder must be poured into the contact track after the insulating layer has been removed. Make sure you use refractory solder; other solders just cannot tolerate the temperatures generated by the heater when it is operating. You must still make a reserve even though, under normal circumstances, the degree won’t exceed one hundred.

Selecting a solder should be done with as much consideration as possible. Purchasing lead-free solder with a high melting point (above 200 degrees) is preferable. An appropriate one can be ordered online.

Purchasing a specific soldering iron for lead-free solder is the next step. Orders are available:

• a soldering station;
• an adjustable soldering iron with a ceramic heating element.

Additionally, standard 65-watt soldering irons made in accordance with GOST 1969 or 1977 can be used to solder lead-free solder. Now that you have everything ready, you can get to work:

• fasten the heating element between two pliers;
• remove all grease deposits and dirt from the area being treated;
• pour soldering acid onto the supply track;
• fill the entire section of the old contact track with lead-free solder;
• check the thermal stability of the dielectric (the soldering iron should not melt it).

The soldering process can be regarded as finished at this point. You must then verify that the heating element is operational. Another tool used for this is a multimeter.

Checking the heating element after soldering

You must remeasure the resistance between the heating element’s power contacts in order to determine whether soldering was beneficial. Connect the multimeter probes to the appropriate terminals; typically, the device’s screen will show values between 22 and 25 ohms. Additionally, make sure there is no resistance to ground.

Next, the thermocouple’s functionality is examined. The resistance between the first and second, second and third, and first and third contacts must all be measured. Another tool used for this is a multimeter.

The resistance between the first and third terminal should be equal to the sum of the resistances between contacts 1 and 2, 2 and 3.

The heater repair is finished if the values displayed on the ohmmeter screen match the norm. The Bosch dishwasher itself and the recirculation pump need to be reassembled next. We will explain the process to you and outline any potential challenges.

Although fixing a Bosch dishwasher’s heating element may seem difficult, it is doable with the appropriate strategy. Accurately diagnosing the problem is essential because it prevents needless expenses and repairs.

Once the heating element has been determined to be the issue, carefully follow the repair instructions. To protect your safety, don’t forget to turn off the power before you start. Although replacing the element involves some technical skill, you can do it yourself if you have the patience and attention to detail.

Always test the dishwasher after a repair to make sure everything is operating as it should. Your dishwasher should heat water as needed if the heating element is working properly, ensuring that your dishes are clean and sanitized.

You can learn more about how your appliance operates and save money by doing the repair yourself. To prevent additional harm to your dishwasher, don’t be afraid to get professional assistance if you ever feel unsure.

For your dishes to be cleaned and dried efficiently, a Bosch dishwasher’s heating element needs to be repaired. Poor washing performance and insufficient drying can result from a malfunctioning heating element, but with the correct advice, you can diagnose the issue and either replace or repair the part yourself, saving you money and effort.

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