The door of the washing machine does not close tightly

It can be annoying and keep you from doing laundry if the door of your washing machine isn’t closing all the way. This is a frequent problem that can arise from a number of causes, ranging from something as simple as a piece of clothing getting stuck in the door to more significant issues like a broken latch.

Your washing machine won’t start if the door doesn’t close all the way, leaving you with a load of dirty laundry. Fortunately, a lot of these issues are fixable with a little troubleshooting, and you may even be able to fix it yourself in certain situations.

In order to help you quickly and easily get your laundry back on track, we’ll go over some of the most typical reasons why a washing machine door won’t close tightly in this article and offer solutions.

Checking the mechanics

The washing machine’s mechanics are the issue if the door is unable to close securely. Put simply, either the hatch is drooping or the lock or some of its parts are broken, so the locking components cannot be fixed in the designated grooves. There are several reasons why this occurs:

• natural wear of the locking mechanism parts;
• Inaccurate operation of the machine (sharp slap of hatch, pressure on the door, etc.D.);
• Production marriage.

It is vital to assess the "symptoms" in order to determine the nature of the malfunction. Let’s start by examining why the drum does not close tightly. There are two possible outcomes: either the lock malfunctions or the door does not fit into the grooves. Everything in the first case points to a skewed hatch. More accurately, the shut-off "tongue" is not fixed in the designated hole and the side loops sagged. By using construction level and tightening the fasteners, the sash’s positional failure is eliminated.

The skew of the locking tongue is the cause if the hinges are tightened but the washer still won’t close. Most likely, the metal rod that holds the element in place dropped below the applied level after it fell. You must disassemble the door, locate the lock, and put everything back in its original "position" in order to move the fastener to its proper location. Local fixes don’t always work, and you’ll need to get a new door handle altogether.

Contemporary washing machines do not begin their cycles with the door open; instead, they pause and display a system error code on the screen.

A third result is also possible: the door locks without clicking even though it fits into the grooves. The latter’s absence suggests that the guide—a thin plastic plate—has broken down. This is the portion that clicks after being lastly fixed in the groove. It will be obvious that the hatch was not locked if there are no sounds:

• the plastic "hook" is worn out, broken or sagged;
• due to a skew, the guide did not fit into the intended groove;
• the door did not close tightly.

Without clicking, the program will end and a leak will happen when the tank is full, so you can’t start the wash without clicking. The guide can only be replaced with a new one; it cannot be fixed.

The lock does not work well

Electronics issues are more common than mechanical ones. The first click can be heard quite clearly, while the second, though slightly muffled, is not audible. The error code "dE" shows up on the screen at the same moment. Pressing the start button does not cause the washing machine to operate. A malfunctioning UBL is the cause of the machine’s behavior.

It is thought that turning on the UBL is an essential safety precaution to keep the user from inadvertently opening the drum while washing. It provides the equipment with double protection. The cycle does not begin if the hatch does not close hermetically, the lock is not engaged.

When the component is worn out and clogged, as well as when there are issues with the washing machine’s control board, the electronic lock is not engaged.

Frequently, the UBL activates the electronic lock instead of the door being open. There are several reasons why the device might malfunction, ranging from component wear to control board malfunctions.

• Natural wear. UBL consists of bimetallic plates, which wear out during operation and stop conducting electric current. It is impossible to restore the elements, only to replace the blocker completely.
• Clogging. The blocking device is a leaky part, therefore, when using the machine, debris often gets into it: dust and lint. A clogged UBL works intermittently, since its response to current is slowed down. The malfunction is eliminated by disassembling the part, its subsequent cleaning and assembly.
• Faulty board. The worst thing is when the UBL does not work due to a lost connection with the electronic unit. On the module, the connecting elements leading to the part or the microcircuits receiving information are damaged. Sometimes there are problems with the firmware. To repair, you will need to test the board for serviceability, reconfigure it or change it completely.

You can do a DIY repair at home if wear or clogging is the reason the UBL has stopped working. It is advised to call the service instead of taking any chances in the event that the control board breaks down. The electronic module is a very complex and sensitive system, and only experts with the right tools should perform diagnostics on it. A new unit costs at least half as much as the washing machine itself, and any negligent movement can cause irreversible damage to the component.

Your washing machine’s door may not be closing securely because of straightforward problems like dirt accumulation, a broken seal, or a malfunctioning latch. It may only need to be cleaned or adjusted, but occasionally a worn-out part may need to be replaced. Dealing with this issue as soon as possible will spare you from more serious problems down the road because proper door closure is crucial to preventing leaks and guaranteeing your machine operates smoothly.

Testing and replacing a broken lock

You can typically handle the UBL on your own. However, you should first confirm that the gadget is broken. You must take the blocker apart and test it to accomplish this. Follow these steps in sequence.

1. Disconnect the washing machine from the power supply and water supply.
2. Open the door. As a rule, a failure with the UBL occurs after it is triggered, so the hatch is initially locked. To open the drum, you need to unfasten the lower false panel, tilt the washing machine to the left and, putting your hand into the hole, try to move the lock latch. You can also get to the blocker from above: remove the cover and tilt the equipment back.
3. Remove the hatch cuff. It is enough to find the clamp and loosen it, and then tuck the rubber into the drum.
4. Unscrew the bolts holding the locking mechanism.

It is advised to take pictures or videos of every step involved in disassembling the UBL in order to prevent errors when reassembly is taking place.

1. Disconnect the connected wires.
2. Take out the lock.

The operability of the removed UBL is tested. It is first advised to carefully read the washing machine’s factory instructions, or more specifically, the section pertaining to the lock’s electrical circuit. Next, set the "crocodile" clamps to "zero" and "phase," turn on the multimeter in the "Resistance" position, and check the readings on the device. In the event that the tester displays a three-digit number, the blocker is operational. A breakdown of the part will be shown by other numbers. Proceed to move the probes to the zero contact and common relay. There is no need to worry at"0" or"1"; for other values, switch to a new device.

The UBL is regarded as non-repairable; purchasing a new one is considerably simpler and less expensive. The devices are inexpensively sold; the most important thing is to provide the seller with the washing machine’s serial number. It’s best to stay away from Chinese knockoffs and only consider branded analogs.

A new UBL is very easy to install. After attaching the cables, tightening the cuff, tightening the clamp, and positioning the lock in the grooves, you can begin cleaning. You’ve done everything right if the door "grabs" with two clicks.

While it can be annoying when your washing machine door won’t close properly, you can usually fix the issue. Small obstructions, broken seals, and latch problems are common causes. Often, the problem can be found by closely inspecting these areas.

Frequent upkeep can help keep this issue from recurring, such as cleaning the door seal and making sure nothing gets caught in the latch. Maintaining your machine will extend its smooth operation.

It might be time to hire a professional to fix the problem if it still doesn’t go away after trying your best. In certain cases, repairing components like hinges or door locks is necessary to get them back to working order.

Video on the topic

The sealing rubber of the refrigerator does not fit tightly

Water is leaking from the bottom of the washing machine hatch door

The washing machine door does not close. All the reasons why the washing machine hatch does not lock

The washing machine does not close the hatch. Washing does not start . Error de or door.

📢Repair of the hatch hinge of the Atlant washing machine 🛠️👍

The door does not close in the #washing #machine #LG DIY repair

The door on the washing machine is dangling, how to remove the play in 5 minutes!

The washing machine door does not close?Sagged?How to repair the lock on Samsung, LG, Gorenje.