The Atlant washing machine does not push

The inconvenient and frustrating thing happens when your Atlant washing machine stops spinning. This issue can result in your clothes being extremely wet at the end of a cycle, which isn’t what you would anticipate from a dependable machine.

There exist multiple typical causes for an Atlant washing machine’s inability to spin. Sometimes the problem is straightforward and easily resolved. In other cases, it might call for a little more work or even outside assistance.

We’ll examine the potential causes of this issue in this post and offer workable fixes you can apply at home. Finding the source of the problem is the first step towards fixing your machine, whether it’s an overloaded drum, a clogged filter, or something more serious.

An unbalanced load, a clogged drain pump, or a broken motor could be the cause of your Atlant washing machine’s non-spinning issue. Taking care of these problems frequently allows the machine to spin again without requiring expert repair.

Where to look for a breakdown?

You can accept damp sheets by getting out of the drum and squeezing the bathroom manually. However, doing this will risk damaging the washing machine in addition to taking a lot of time and effort. By ignoring the questionable "symptoms," you run the risk of making the situation worse and reaching the "fatal outcome" of the method. It is preferable to respond quickly to an issue rather than overcomplicating your life.

It is important to first determine what breakdowns and failures do not work out. In the following circumstances, the drum on the Atlantean laundry rooms does not spin:

• the no spin mode is on;
• the drum is out of balance;
• the drain system is not functioning;
• the tachometer is broken;
• the electric motor does not accelerate;
• the bearing unit is damaged;
• the control board is out of order;
• the drum is jammed due to a foreign object getting into the tank.

Opening the washing machine’s casing on your own is not allowed if it is still under warranty; all repairs must be done at a service center.

You can determine the non-working spin on your own in 99 percent of cases. All you have to do is regularly inspect each of the Atlant washing machine’s identified "pain points," making sure to take safety precautions as well. Below are detailed instructions on what to do and how to do it.

Error in mode selection

You shouldn’t become alarmed if the washing machine failed to spin the clothes. Often, mundane inattention rather than a breakdown is the issue. For instance, if the user inadvertently chooses a mode where the spin is automatically reduced to 400–600 rpm. Among the fundamental programs are "Down," "Wool," "Curtains," "Delicate," "Hand," and "Silk."

It is simple to verify or disprove your guess if you recall which program was chosen and review the features listed in the instructions. Alternatively, you can test it out by starting a fresh cycle in the "Spin," "Children’s," "Cotton," or "Fast" spin modes. A mistake was made if the laundry in the drum has dried out.

Using the "Child Lock" option is advised to prevent unintentional modifications to the cycle settings.

Remember that you could unintentionally lessen the drum rotation’s intensity. You can easily alter the factory settings on a lot of contemporary washing machines, including stopping the spin cycle. A simple inadvertent press of any button on the panel will cause the speed to drop from its maximum to its lowest. Testing and keeping an eye on the predetermined values is preferable. We move on to diagnostics if the items are not spun.

It may be an imbalance

One of the most frequent causes of no spin is an imbalance. Put simply, as the drum spins, it is knocked off its designated axis and begins to strike the tank walls. The cycle ends 7–15 minutes earlier, the machine stops spinning, and the clothes are not spun for safety reasons.

Failure to adhere to the recommended drum loading guidelines—overload or underload—causes imbalance. Laundry clumping, which occurs when it gets stuck in a hole in the duvet cover and is arranged unevenly along the walls, also throws off the equilibrium. These days’ devices have the capacity to capture questionable rocking and show the associated error code. Older models confuse users by simply stopping the cycle.

Should you sense an imbalance, you need to:

• wait until the machine turns off the UBL;
• open the hatch and assess the situation (overload, underload or clumping);
• fix the problem (by taking out some of the laundry, adding items or breaking up the lump and distributing the clothes in the drum);
• close the door;
• activate the spin;
• make sure that the laundry is spun.

Drum imbalance occurs when the loading standards are not followed!

It is preferable to avoid imbalance and keep a close eye on the quantity of laundry being done. Aside from potential internal mechanical damage, imbalance ruins the shock-absorbing system, drum shaft, and bearing unit. The manufacturer’s instructions specify both the upper and lower bounds, so make sure to keep them in mind. As a result, the Atlant washing machine, which has a 5 kg capacity, can wash 1 kg of laundry at a time, with a minimum load of 8–9 kg.

It is impossible to drain the waste water

If the water in the drum hasn’t drained after it has spun is another issue. This is probably a drainage system malfunction; the washing machine is unable to empty the tank because of a malfunctioning pump, an impeller that is clogged, or some other obstruction. You will need to regularly check all of the indicated malfunctions in order to determine why the failure occurred and what needs to be done.

1. Eliminate sewer blockage. First, cover the hole with your hand, disconnect the drain hose from the sewer pipe and lower it into the bathtub or sink. Perhaps the common drain is clogged.
2. Feel the hose. Next, carefully inspect the drain sleeve for blockages and kinks. If seals or foreign objects are noticed, the corrugation is disconnected and washed under the tap.
3. Check the filter. The garbage filter is located in the lower right corner of the machine behind the rectangular technical hatch. Pry the latter with a screwdriver, remove it and, putting a basin under it, unscrew the filter nozzle. All stuck dirt must be cleaned out.
4. Look at the impeller and pump. The hole freed from the filter is illuminated with a flashlight. It is necessary to find the snail, remove hair and lint from the blades, clean the pump body and “ring” all the contacts with a multimeter.

It is strictly clockwise to unscrew the garbage filter!

Repairing a malfunctioning pump or damaged filter won’t solve the issue; instead, it’s best to replace the damaged parts. After completing all adjustments, you ought to put the machine together and run a test wash. After spinning, an empty drum will eliminate the drainage system’s offender.

You should test the tacho sensor

If the tachogenerator is broken, the washing machine won’t turn on. The Hall sensor, another name for the device, is what gives the engine its increased speed. For the equipment’s safety, the control board disconnects from the motor and stops spinning if the device malfunctions and stops recording speed.

The tacho sensor may have issues for the reasons listed below:

• repeated overload of the drum;
• long-term use of the machine without a "break";
• loose fixation of the device;
• loose contacts or damage to the wires;
• sharp voltage surges or a short circuit.

You must take the motor out of the housing, locate and examine the tachogenerator that is attached to the Hall sensor, and perform a manual diagnosis. Next, use a multimeter to ring the connections, clean the wires, tighten the terminals, and compare the results to the norm. You will have to replace the device if it is defective.

The problem is in the engine

If the engine has failed, you can diagnose the problem yourself. When the brushes are worn out or there are winding issues, collector motors slow down. You must take out the washing machine’s motor in order to perform diagnostics:

• disconnect the equipment from the power supply and water supply;
• remove the back panel;
• remove the drive belt;
• unhook the wiring and retaining bolts;
• rock the motor and take it out.

It is customary to replace electric brushes in pairs.

The engine still needs to be cleaned and inspected, and any overheating symptoms (burning smell, dark patches, burned insulation) should be looked for. Next, we open the "cases" and measure the length of the "coal" to inspect the electric brushes. In the event that the tip is shorter than 0.7–1.5 cm, get new ones. Lastly, we use a multimeter to test the winding.

There is something extra in the tank

Poor spinning can also result from an object jamming the drum. When coins or keys from your pocket fall into the tank, they "get stuck" and make it difficult for the tank to rotate. If you don’t take immediate action, the walls of the containers—whose market value is equal to that of a brand-new machine—will sustain damage.

It is advisable to verify the "diagnosis" prior to disassembling the apparatus. It is necessary to open the hatch, spin the drum, drain the water, and disconnect the equipment from the power source. There may be an object inside if rotating is difficult or if you hear a creaking or cracking sound.

• disconnect the machine from the sewer and water supply;
• move it away from the wall;
• remove the back panel;
• find the heating element;
• take a photo of the “chip” with the wires;
• unhook the wiring;
• unscrew the retaining bolts;
• put the heating element aside;
• shine a flashlight through the hole;
• remove the stuck object with your hand or a metal hook.

We advise you to take advantage of the circumstance and clean the heating element on an as-needed basis rather than stopping there. After that, we put the machine together and see if the drum spins freely. Next, we begin a test wash and keep an eye on the spin’s quality. If the items don’t dry out, we investigate the problem more.

Bearing unit failure

It is advisable to have the bearing unit checked if the washing machine is not spinning and simultaneously "pleases" with an unusual noise, such as creaking or rumbling. Most likely, the water that got on the bearings washed the grease out of the seals, causing them to leak and lose their tightness. After all damaged parts are replaced, the situation is restored.

The bearing unit repair is a labor-intensive process. To repair the washing machine, you will need to buy the appropriate replacement parts and disassemble it nearly all the way, removing the tank, shock absorbers, heating element, and counterweights. After that, it’s imperative to remove the jammed bearings without endangering the crosspiece or the drum shaft. You will therefore require a large number of tools and consumables.

It’s a good idea to familiarize yourself with the Atlant washing machine’s electrical circuit and factory instructions before disassembling.

It is advisable that you carefully evaluate your skills and strengths prior to beginning any bearing unit repairs. Without knowledge and practice, it’s simple to exacerbate the issue by bending the shaft, puncturing the tank, or harming the wires. However, since bearing replacement is typically estimated to cost one-third of the price of a new washing machine, you will have to pay a large amount for the services of a master.

There are a few possible causes for an Atlant washing machine that isn’t spinning, including an uneven load, a clogged drain filter, or a broken motor. Checking these common problems for yourself can often solve the issue quickly.

Occasionally, a straightforward reset or laundry redistribution could solve the problem. If the problem continues, though, it can indicate a more serious problem that needs to be fixed by a professional. Future issues can be avoided with careful use and routine maintenance.

By taking quick action to resolve these problems, you can make sure your Atlant washing machine keeps working well and streamlines your laundry routine.