It’s not just an annoyance when your washing machine doesn’t spin or rinse. Your clothes come out very unclean, drenched, and soapy, leaving you perplexed and angry.
Numerous factors may contribute to this prevalent problem. Understanding the underlying cause of any issue is essential to resolving it quickly, whether it be a minor one like a tangled load or a more serious one like blocked filters or pump problems.
This post will examine the common causes of insufficient rinsing and spinning, assisting you in troubleshooting the issue and restoring optimal machine performance.
Problem | Possible Cause |
Machine does not rinse | Clogged filter or drain hose |
Machine does not spin | Unbalanced load or too few items |
Water remains in drum | Pump malfunction or blockage |
Cycle stuck in rinse phase | Faulty control board or sensor |
- External factors
- The most likely malfunctions
- Drainage filter and sleeve
- Let"s inspect the pump
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External factors
You cannot disregard the "freezing" if the washing machine stops with the tank full. The machine must be examined to ensure that the parts and systems in charge of spinning and rinsing are in working order. Although it is best to contact a technician, you can "discard" common causes of failure on your own. It is advised to rule out any outside influences that might make emptying the washing machine’s water tank challenging first.
- The drain hose is “closed”. Often the machine is in good working order, but the water cannot leave the tank due to a blocked drain. Most likely, the drainage hose is bent or pinched – the corrugation got under the machine or another heavy object. In this case, the pump is unable to pump liquid into the sewer due to insufficient pressure.
- The sewer is clogged. Another option is that the drain hose, common house riser or siphon is clogged. As a rule, a blockage occurs in the drainage sleeve, which must be disconnected from the machine body, inspected and washed.
If the washing machine’s drainage system becomes clogged, the machine does not switch to spinning and rinsing!
Is everything with the hose and sewer working well? Then, the machine itself is the source of the drain issue; either the system cannot or will not provide the order to empty the tank. In any event, you will need to perform a thorough diagnostic on the washing machine, ensuring that every important component of the drainage system is in working order. Point by point, we will examine how and what to do.
When your washing machine doesn’t spin or rinse, it’s usually because of clogged filters, issues with drainage, or an uneven load that keeps the machine from doing these cycles correctly. By taking care of these frequent causes, normal operation is typically restored, saving you money on more significant repairs.
The most likely malfunctions
There’s no need to freak out if the washing machine won’t spin or rinse. Frequently, the machine stops in the middle of the cycle with a drum full of soapy water, though this is not always a serious issue. Additionally, you can diagnose the issue on your own and resolve it without calling the service.
The most common causes of a washing machine not switching to rinse and spin are blockages, broken pumps, malfunctioning pressure switches, or failed modules. Let’s examine each issue in greater detail.
- Clog. In addition to the drain hose, the trash filter and drain pipe can become clogged and thereby block the drain. Sometimes a coin or keys that get into the tank completely block the water drainage, preventing the waste liquid from leaving the drum. To eliminate the blockage, you will have to partially disassemble the machine and wash the clogged elements.
- Broken pump. It is the pump that is "responsible" for pumping water out of the washing machine. If it burns out, the system will not start, and the machine will remain standing with a full tank. Sometimes the problem is in the blockage – the impeller is blocked by debris. Diagnostics of the drainage will tell you what repairs are needed.
- Faulty pressure switch. If the level sensor does not work correctly, the control board does not receive a command to drain. For example, the pressure switch shows that the tank is empty, while it is full of soapy water.
- Failed control board. It"s simple: the "brain" of the washing machine does not give the command to drain due to a breakdown. As a result, the machine hangs with a full tank.
Generally speaking, the pressure switch and drainage system need to be checked if the machine does not automatically switch to rinsing and spinning. You can handle repairs and diagnostics at home if you follow these guidelines consistently and cautiously. Below are all of the instructions.
Drainage filter and sleeve
It is advised to first inspect the drainage system for malfunctions and obstructions. But first, use the garbage filter’s opening to empty the tank. We behave as follows:
- disconnect the machine from communications;
- remove the door of the technical hatch;
- place a container for collecting water under the garbage filter;
- unscrew the plug;
- collect water.
The electronic hatch lock will release and allow the user to remove the laundry as soon as the washing machine’s tank is empty. Drainage diagnostics are then performed, which involve inspecting and cleaning the hole that was liberated from the nozzle. Warm, soapy water is used to wash the filter itself.
Manufacturers of washing machines advise replacing the waste filter every two to three months.
Make sure to feel the entire length of the drain hose to check for obstructions. If a "lump" is present, a special cable or wire bent into a "hook" is used to clean the corrugation. After you’re "done," rinse the rubber under the faucet.
Let"s inspect the pump
The drain pump is the next in line. Even before it abruptly stops, you can speculate about a malfunction or blockage because the pump makes an unsettling humming sound when pumping out water and the washing mode lasts longer. Should you fail to respond to the "symptoms" promptly, the machine will cease to drain. There are two reasons why the pump breaks down:
- blockage (hair, lint and other debris wind around the impeller, blocking the drain);
- breakage (factory defect, natural wear, careless operation).
You are able to handle the pump on your own. To begin, the washing machine is turned upside down and its bottom is freed. Next, the pump is taken out of the snail and examined. Her blades can be freed from trash if the case is in the clogged impeller. Additionally, nearby components.
Repairing the blown pump is not an option; replacement is!
When everything appears to be "clean" from the outside, we use a multimeter to call the pump. A three-digit number will be displayed by the tester when there are issues with the control module, and "0" or "1" will indicate a blocked pump. A replacement for a comparable device is displayed in the first scenario, while contacting the service is shown in the second.
The reason behind your washing machine’s inability to spin or rinse is frequently related to common problems like imbalanced loads, clogged filters, or incorrect settings. Early detection of these issues can help avert later, more serious malfunctions.
You can help prevent these situations by giving your washing machine regular maintenance and using it properly. Make sure the filter is clean, don’t overload the drum, and check your program settings one last time before beginning a cycle.
When basic troubleshooting fails to solve the problem, it might be time to seek professional advice. Prompt problem solving guarantees that your machine will continue to function properly for many years to come.