The washing machine does not switch from washing to rinsing

When your washing machine won’t switch from washing to rinsing, it can be very annoying. After loading and beginning the cycle, your laundry has become stuck, leaving you to wonder what went wrong. This frequent problem can throw off your schedule and leave you with improperly cleaned clothing.

Your washing machine may be stalling at this point for a number of reasons. A simple problem like a load size issue could be the cause, or it could be a more complex issue like a broken timer or a clogged drain. The first step to getting your machine back in working order is figuring out the possible causes.

We’ll examine the causes of this problem in this post and provide workable fixes to assist you in diagnosing and resolving your washing machine. We provide the advice you need to resume your laundry routine, regardless of your level of experience doing repairs yourself or if you’re just trying to save money.

The problem is not in the machine

The machine freezes in the middle of the cycle with a full water tank when it doesn’t transition from washing to rinsing. This kind of issue cannot be disregarded. It will be up to you to diagnose the device and determine whether its major parts are still serviceable. Of course, it is simpler to pay the service center’s experts and leave the repair to them, but you can resolve the issue on your own. First, let’s decide what to do.

Before diagnosing, experts advise confirming that there is nothing obstructing the machine’s external water drain. As a result, the drain hose is examined initially. Check to see if the sleeve is twisted. The reason the water does not drain from the tank could be that it became pinched after getting under the washing machine’s foot. Check the sewer if the corrugation is in good condition.

Sometimes a blockage in the common house riser or siphon is the cause of the washing machine’s liquid not draining. You will need to clean the sewer pipe if the sink and bathtub both have poor water drainage. It is preferable to hire a plumber to do this task.

If there is a clog in the drainage system, the automatic machine will not rinse.

If there are no outside obstructions preventing the water from draining, the washing machine’s internal components need to be checked. It will be necessary for you to do a thorough diagnostic on the apparatus and examine every unit, as malfunctioning of one can result in a freeze. Let’s give you step-by-step directions on what to do next.

Your washing machine may not be transitioning from washing to rinsing because of a minor malfunction or a more significant problem such a clogged drain, a broken timer, or a malfunctioning control board. Often, you can fix the issue on your own without calling a technician if you are aware of the typical causes of the issue and know a few simple troubleshooting techniques. Get your washing machine back on track with the help of this guide, which will walk you through the most common causes and solutions.

What is most likely broken in the washing machine?

If the washing machine won’t spin and rinse, don’t freak out. Not every time is this a serious breakdown. The washing machine occasionally freezes due to a minor issue. As a result, you can frequently identify the type of malfunction on your own without consulting an expert.

What typically triggers this kind of issue? Most frequently, a blockage in the drain system, a malfunctioning pump, a broken pressure switch, or damage to the control module cause the washing machine to stop rinsing. Let’s investigate the potential impact of each unit on the machine’s functioning.

• Clogging. In addition to the drain hose, the garbage filter or the pipe connecting the tank to the pump can become clogged. For example, a coin that gets into the washing machine can disrupt the normal outflow of liquid. The water drainage is blocked, so the machine freezes in the middle of the cycle, without starting to rinse. In this case, you will have to clean the named elements.
• Pump. It is responsible for pumping out waste liquid from the system. If the element fails, the machine will remain standing with a full tank. It happens that the problem is in the blockage, then it is enough to clean the impeller. If the pump burns out, it will need to be replaced.
• Level sensor. An incorrectly working pressure switch gives the "brain" erroneous information. For example, it notifies that the tank is empty, while there is soapy water inside the machine. Therefore, the drain does not start, and the washing machine does not start rinsing.
• Electronic module. A non-working control board is another possible "culprit". When the processor fails, the operation of the machine is disrupted, so it may well freeze.

The water level sensor is inspected after the drainage system. These are the most common malfunctions that occur in washing machines. The pump is examined after that, and then the electronic module.

Filter element or hose

You will need to empty the washing machine first if it does not begin to rinse and hangs full of water. While the liquid is being drained through the trash filter, this component is being examined for obstructions. The following actions are what you ought to take:

• pull the power cord of the machine from the socket;
• close the tap on the water pipe;
• unhook the lower false panel or open the technical hatch (depending on the model of the washing machine, the trash filter is “hidden” behind one of these elements);
• put unnecessary rags around the machine;
• place a container for collecting water under the bottom of the machine in the “trash can” area;
• unscrew the filter plug half a turn;
• collect the soapy liquid in a basin.

You can remove items from the drum once the door lock unlocks when the tank is empty. After that, insert a flashlight into the hole where the trash filter was placed and rinse it with warm water. Take out any debris that may be inside.

Ideally, the dust filter is cleaned every one to two months.

Make sure to feel the entire length of the drain hose as well; debris has probably accumulated there. Once a "lump" has been located, use a long wire with a bent end to clean the sleeve. The corrugation is also cleaned with a hose.

The pump may be broken

Usually, the machine starts to exhibit symptoms of a problem before the pump breaks down unexpectedly. The pump is most likely to blame for the freeze if you noticed that previous cycles lasted longer than usual and that there was a loud hum when water was pumped out. If you don’t address these symptoms, the unit will eventually continue to malfunction.

The following factors could cause the drain pump to malfunction:

• clogging – in this case, the movement of the impeller is blocked by debris;
• breakdowns.

Pump issues can be resolved on their own. You must lay the automatic machine on its left side in order to access the element. Good news! You can immediately access the pump if there is no bottom. Disconnect the pallet from the body if one is present.

The pump must then be removed from the snail and thoroughly inspected. Clean them if there is a lot of debris or if something foreign is lodged between the impeller blades. A multimeter is used to inspect the part if there are no visible defects. It is necessary to replace the burned-out drain pump as it is not repairable.

Analyze the values displayed on the device screen by touching the ommmeter probes to the pump contacts. A zero or unit will signal that the pump needs to be replaced. The tester will display a three-digit number if the control module is the source of the issue.

It’s critical to solve the problem as soon as possible if your washing machine isn’t transitioning from washing to rinsing in order to prevent more difficulties. There are a number of potential causes for this issue, ranging from straightforward user error to intricate mechanical problems.

First, see if there is a problem with the machine’s load. Sometimes the machine’s sensors become confused by overloading or underloading it, which keeps it from moving on to the next cycle. Furthermore, check to see if the detergent drawer is closed all the way, as some machines won’t work if it’s left open.

Electrical problems could also be the cause, such as a malfunctioning control board or timer. These parts are essential for controlling the washing machine’s cycles. If they break down, the machine can become stuck in one stage and not be able to proceed to the rinsing stage.

It’s best to get professional advice if you’ve exhausted easy solutions and the issue still doesn’t go away. Without the necessary expertise, attempting to fix more complicated mechanical or electrical problems can result in more serious issues. You can prolong the life of your washing machine by performing timely repairs and routine maintenance.

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