The Haier washing machine does not turn on

It can be annoying and inconvenient when your Haier washing machine won’t turn on. This problem can cause you to miss work and accumulate a mountain of unwashed laundry. Thankfully, there are numerous typical causes for your washing machine to not start, and a lot of them are simple fixes.

It’s important to check a few basic things before worrying about expensive repairs. Simple problems like an unresponsive power button, a tripped circuit breaker, or a loose power cord could be the source. You will save time and effort if you rule out these options.

If these simple fixes don’t work, there may be more complicated problems at hand, like a broken fuse, a malfunctioning control panel, or an issue with the door lock. This post will walk you through the process of identifying the issue and offer some potential fixes to get your Haier washing machine operating properly once more.

There are a number of common problems that can be causing your Haier washing machine to not turn on, ranging from minor problems with the power connection to more serious internal faults. Check the essentials first, such as the power supply, door closure, and settings, before becoming too alarmed. If this doesn’t resolve the issue, more troubleshooting or expert assistance might be required to find and address the underlying issue.

List of possible malfunctions

The reason the washing machine does not turn on is very simple to comprehend. The machine remains "silent" despite the absence of blinking lights on the control panel and no response when keys are pressed on the "dashboard." All of this suggests that the machine’s power supply has been cut off. There could be a variety of causes for this.

• disconnection of centralized electricity;
• sticking of the network key on the control panel;
• breakdown of the socket supplying the automatic machine;
• defect of the network cable or its plug;
• failure of the interference suppression filter;
• break in the power supply wiring inside the automatic machine;
• malfunction of the main control module.

You will need to examine the automatic machine itself and diagnose any external electrical communications in order to determine the problem.

Diagnostic procedures range from easy to difficult. Verify that the power source is off. Check the plug, the socket, and the power cord next. Let’s examine the appropriate course of action in this instance.

Main wire, socket or power strip

You must first turn on the switch. It’s possible that the machine is fine and that the reason for its reluctance to work is a routine power outage. Examining the electrical panel comes next. Occasionally, the residual current device trips when the network is overloaded to the point where the line breaks. In this scenario, you must restart the system and "drop" the additional users.

Examine the outlet that the washing machine is "powered" by next. Usually, the issue is visible to the unaided eye:

• there are burns, dark spots on the socket body;
• there is a burning smell;
• smoke coming from the socket;
• the plastic body of the socket is melted.

Check the socket by plugging in any functional electrical appliance (like a hair dryer) to make sure there are no external flaws. If the gadget "buzzes," the point is operational. The socket is the source of the problem if there is no contact as well.

You can ask an electrician to come in or you can adjust the output yourself. It is preferable to give the washing machine its own outlet with strong moisture protection.

Once external communications have been completed, it is important to focus on the automatic machine itself. Take care of the network cable first and inspect it for flaws. There may occasionally be fire signs on the plug or cord.

Use a multimeter to ring the cable if it appears to be undamaged. Replace the element after determining that the network cable is defective. In this situation, repair is not possible because it is dangerous to rewind defects using electrical tape.

Checking the interference suppression filter is the next step. The washing machine is shielded from network voltage surges by the FPS. One strong current surge has the potential to burn out the device, making it impossible to supply electricity to the washing machine’s main components.

Using a multimeter, the interference filter is examined. You must take the following action:

• de-energize the automatic machine;
• turn off the valve responsible for supplying water to the washing machine;
• remove the top panel of the washing machine (to do this, you need to unscrew the 2 bolts that secure the cover);
• find the place where the power cord is connected to the body of the washing machine;
• find the interference suppression filter near the cord (this is a small "box" with rounded edges);
• disconnect all wiring connected to it from the interference filter;
• remove the FPS from the automatic machine.

Examine the filter once you have it in your hands. There shouldn’t be any signs of burned areas or melted connections. Prepare a multimeter for yourself if there are no visible flaws. Toggle the FPS on and put the tester in buzzer mode.

The interference suppression filter is broken if the multimeter screen shows 0 or 1. You will need to purchase a new gadget as the part is not repairable. After relocating the FPS, all wires that had been disconnected are now connected to it.

Network button on the control panel

The network button on Haier washing machines from earlier models frequently sticks. And for that reason the machine might not turn on. The washing machine won’t start because a broken button keeps the control board from receiving power.

The phenomenon of bathroom machines’ buttons sticking is frequently observed. Water seeps under the button, causing the contacts to oxidize. The washing machine stops turning on when there is a disruption in current exchange.

The network button’s suitability is examined in the manner described below:

• de-energize the washing machine;
• remove the top cover of the automatic machine;
• look inside the case – find the network button on the back of the dashboard;
• disconnect the wires connected to the button from it;
• pry up the plastic with a screwdriver, deal with the latches and pull the button out.

Next, a multimeter test must be performed on the button. It is examined for resistance after breakdown. Purchase and install a new key if the device detects a deviation from the standard values. Although cleaning the contacts may occasionally be helpful, it is advised to replace the element right away to avoid taking any chances.

It can be annoying if your Haier washing machine won’t turn on, but don’t lose hope. Numerous prevalent problems, many of which are simple to resolve, may be the reason.

Check the fundamentals first. Verify that the outlet is operational, the power cord is correctly plugged in, and the power button is depressed. Occasionally, a straightforward power reset that involves unplugging the device for a short while can resolve the issue.

Check the door if the power supply is working properly. If the door lock mechanism is broken or the door isn’t closed all the way, the machine won’t turn on. Additionally, look over the control panel for any indications of wear and tear or non-functioning buttons that might be keeping the machine from starting up.

When the machine still won’t start after you’ve ruled out these typical issues, it might be time to contact an expert. The control board, internal wiring, or other parts may have a problem that needs to be fixed by a professional.

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