The drain pump in the washing machine does not work

The drain pump on your washing machine can malfunction at any time, making laundry day a stressful experience. Clothes get drenched from water that won’t drain properly, and if ignored, it can even result in foul odors. Restoring your machine to normal requires first understanding what causes the drain pump to fail.

There could be several common problems at work, such as a broken pump motor or a clogged filter. Finding the underlying cause may seem difficult, but many of these issues can be resolved on your own with some advice. This post will explain the various causes of your washing machine’s drain pump not functioning and provide you with some easy troubleshooting techniques to get it fixed.

How a pump malfunction manifests itself?

A broken pump is just one of the many reasons the machine stops draining. It makes no sense to "blame" the pump and begin repairs right away; instead, it is preferable to carry out a thorough drainage diagnosis and rule out external issues. We start by noting the current "symptoms." The following symptoms point to drain issues:

• the corresponding error code is displayed (the self-diagnosis system of the machine displays a code on the display, after decoding which it will become clear who is to blame, the pump or another element of the drainage);
• the machine washes in standard mode, but stops before spinning;
• the pump does not turn on at all, the machine does not hum;
• the pump works without stopping, constantly humming;
• water is drained at a slow pace (instead of 2-3 minutes – 10-15 minutes);
• the machine drains intermittently, every other time.

Similar "symptoms" make diagnosis difficult because every drainage element’s malfunction or blockage presents itself in the same way. You will need to regularly inspect the drainage system, working your way from simple to complex, in order to identify the root of the problem. The following is the sequence of events:

• look at the dashboard and make sure that the "spin" mode was turned on (some programs, delicate, wool or manual, do not provide for spinning);
• check the set number of revolutions (it is possible that the drain mode was turned off by mistake);
• try to "reset" the error: turn on the spin and start the cycle;
• assess the condition of the drain hose (the sleeve should be located below the level of the tank, not be pinched or bent);
• feel the corrugation to exclude its blockage;
• disconnect the drain hose from the sewer, turn on the drain and lower the free end of the corrugation into a basin or toilet (it is possible that the problem is in the common riser).

Checking the trash filter is the next step. Unscrew the nozzle, open the technical hatch door, and clean the nozzle of any debris or scale. We check the "garbage can’s" seat right away and examine the pump and impeller with a flashlight. Wound hair or threads frequently obstruct the latter’s blades.

We begin the spin, go back to the drain system, and assess the impeller’s performance without assembling the machine. After starting the cycle, if the blades don’t move, the pump is damaged. In this instance, the pump and "ring" must be disassembled.

Is it difficult to access the pump?

You must locate the pump in order to examine it for serviceability. Through the garbage filter, you can see the pump, but you are unable to feel or closely examine it. You’ll need to approach it in order to accomplish this. What to do next is determined by the washing machine’s manufacturer. The bottom of machines made by Samsung, Candy, Ariston, Indesit, Beko, Whirlpool, and LG allows you to access the pump. The following is the algorithm:

• disconnect the washing machine from communications;
• drain the water by unscrewing the garbage filter;
• pull out the powder receptacle, drain the water from it;
• lay a blanket or carpet next to the machine;
• lower the washing machine on its side.

The washing machine needs to be unplugged and de-energized before repairs can be done!

The rear panel on machines made by Zanussi and Electrolux opens to reveal the pump. The washing machine is turned around and freed from the "back" after being disconnected from the water supply and the network. Finding the pump—which is under the washing tank—is all that’s left to do.

Users of Bosch, Siemens, and AEG may find it more challenging because the pump is obscured by the front wall in this case. The machine body must be partially disassembled in order to remove the top cover, dashboard, powder receptacle, and cuff. The UBL must also be disconnected. Next, take off the end to allow the pump to be accessible.

Leak at the pump body or snail

In the event that the machine leaks from below during diagnostics, the pump is broken. You must go to the pump and begin making repairs. The drain pipe is first examined for obstructions, damage, and dependability of fixation. The hose needs to be replaced more frequently than it just needs to be cleaned occasionally. Next, we move forward as follows:

• disconnect the wiring connected to the pump;
• loosen the fasteners;
• take the pump out of the machine;
• inspect the impeller.

The majority of pumps are disassemblable; simply unscrewing the retaining bolts will remove the cover. Next, the snail is taken out, and a leak check is performed on the device itself. Make sure you use an ohmmeter mode on your multimeter to ring the pump.

A malfunctioning drain pump can result in improper water drainage, which can stop your washing machine in the middle of a cycle or even cause flooding. Knowing the typical causes of a malfunction, such as obstructions, electrical problems, or a worn-out pump, can assist you in identifying and possibly resolving the issue, sparing you time and money on repairs.

The pump pumps all the time

Another thing to consider is whether the pump runs nonstop or only occasionally turns on. Usually, the control board is to blame in this situation because it fails to instruct the pump to turn on or off. The machine is therefore "silent" or continuously pumps out water. It is safer to contact the service rather than take the chance of checking and changing the module yourself.

In the event that the pressure switch malfunctions, the pump either never stops or never starts. A malfunctioning level sensor sends data to the module that is erroneously estimated, either too high or too low. Consequently, the pump either operates inactively or "does not know" about the full tank. The pressure switch is easy to inspect on your own. It is sufficient to take off the top cover, locate the device, unplug the tube, examine it, and give it a thorough cleaning. We replace it if evident damage is present.

It’s critical to take immediate action to fix a malfunctioning drain pump in your washing machine in order to prevent more serious issues like water damage or machine breakdowns. A good place to start would be to make sure the pump is getting power and to check for obstructions.

Sometimes clearing out a clogged filter or clearing debris from the drain hose is all that is needed to solve the problem. But if the pump itself is broken, it may need to be replaced, which typically calls for technical know-how or expert assistance.

Maintaining your washing machine and taking care of minor issues can help you avoid bigger problems down the road and keep it in good working order. Never be afraid to seek professional advice to ensure the task is completed correctly if you have any doubts.

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