It may be time to tighten the washing machine drum if you’ve noticed that it’s not turning smoothly or appears to be loose. Inadequate drum fastening can result in irregular cleaning, deafening sounds, and potential harm to the apparatus. But fear not—if you know what to do, tightening the drum is a manageable task.
This post will walk you through the process of tightening your washing machine’s drum so that it is safe and operating correctly. We’ll go over common problems that could lead to a loose drum and how to fix them on your own without calling a pro. You can restore the optimal performance of your washing machine with a little work and the appropriate strategy.
Knowing the procedure is essential, regardless of the type of loader you’re working with—front or top. We’ll go into detail on the precise techniques for various kinds of washing machines so you can confidently take on the issue. Are you prepared to begin? Let’s examine the specifics and restore the functionality of your washing machine drum.
Step | Description |
1 | Unplug the washing machine to ensure safety. |
2 | Open the door and check if the drum is loose or wobbly. |
3 | Locate the drum"s adjustment bolts or screws, usually found at the back or sides. |
4 | Use a wrench or screwdriver to tighten these bolts, turning them clockwise. |
5 | Check the drum"s stability by rotating it by hand to ensure it’s secure. |
6 | Close the door, plug the machine back in, and run a test cycle to confirm everything is working properly. |
In order to keep a washing machine operating efficiently and avoid needless wear and tear, the drum must be tightened. Regular use over time may cause the drum to become loose, which could result in damage or even loud operation. This post will walk you through the process of correctly securing the drum, which will prolong the life of your machine and ensure smooth operation.
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- Replacing the bearing and seal
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Is there really a backlash in the drum?
It’s normal for the drum to have some backlash. When the washing machine is turned off, it is placed down. The only noise the operational machine will produce in this scenario is a faint hum produced by the tank’s rotation.
We can discuss a washing machine breakdown if the backlash in the drum is accompanied by a loud knock or other unrelated noises.
You will need to locate the issue if the machine begins to make a lot of noise while it is washing. First, open the hatch door and move the drum in different directions while holding it. Next, turn the tank in both clockwise and counterclockwise directions. There is a serious issue if there is a loud clanging and grinding noise in addition to these actions.
Without taking the case apart, it will not be possible to determine what is causing the malfunction. Therefore, you will need to look inside the machine to perform additional diagnostics. The following are the most common reasons for the loud noise and the back of the drum during the washing operation:
- problems with counterweights;
- damage to shock absorbers;
- wear of bearings and an omentum;
- workings on a drum sleeve.
Concrete blocks serve as counterweights, and their primary purpose is to dampen vibrations. Weighting agents may become fatigued and unable to perform their duties over time. As a result, the tank starts to hang out, and the impact of the container on other internal details causes a loud knock.
It will be sufficient to replace the details if inspection of the shock absorbers and springs indicates that any of the components are defective. Similar parts are available in specialty stores. You will need to disassemble the machine and place it on the floor in order to install dampers.
Most of the time, broken shock absorbers or counterweights are not the problem. The wear of the seals and bearings is typically the cause of the washing machine’s drum play. Together, we can determine the best way to inspect and fix the washing machine.
Replacing the bearing and seal
You will need to remove the tank, cut the plastic container in half, and nearly disassemble the washing machine’s body in order to reach the bearing unit. Since this is a labor-intensive process, you should honestly evaluate your strengths before beginning any repairs. The following equipment will be necessary for the task:
- two screwdrivers (Phillips and slotted);
- a screwdriver;
- a hammer;
- a punch;
- pliers;
- socket heads of different sizes.
Cast and collapsible tanks are available for automatic washers.
You will need to saw off the non-collapsible tank on your washing machine. Thus, additionally get ready:
- a drill with a diameter of 3 mm;
- a marker or pencil;
- a hacksaw for metal.
Make sure the washing machine is de-energized and disconnected from the water supply and sewerage before disassembling it. To gain access to all sides of the case, move the machine to the center of the space after that. The following will be the subsequent action algorithm:
- remove the top cover of the washing machine (it is fixed with two screws located on the back of the case);
- drain the remaining water from the system by unscrewing the garbage filter (it is hidden behind the lower false panel or technical hatch);
- unhook the drain and inlet hoses from the back wall;
- pull the powder receptacle out of the machine;
- open the drum door, remove the outer clamp holding the hatch cuff;
- tuck the sealing rubber into the drum;
- remove the bolts securing the dashboard;
- carefully disconnect the wires from the control panel and put the dashboard aside;
- remove the bolts holding the UBL, reset the contacts of the blocker;
- unscrew the screws securing the front panel of the washing machine;
- remove the front wall of the automatic machine;
- unscrew the two screws holding the metal frame of the dashboard, located on top of the body, put it aside;
- remove the upper and lower counterweights (these are concrete weighting blocks);
- disconnect all pipes from the tank;
- unscrew the screws that secure the back panel of the washing machine, remove the wall;
- remove the drive belt from the drum pulley;
- remove the heating element by loosening the nut holding it and disconnecting the wiring;
- disconnect the wires from the electric motor.
Make sure you take pictures of the initial parts locations, contact connection diagrams, etc. to avoid making mistakes when reassembly time comes. The machine won’t function properly if even one wire is connected improperly.
Nothing now gets in the way of taking the tank out. To remove the unit from the washing machine body, simply undo the shock absorbers and take care of the springs. Next, check to see if the tank can be collapsed.
It will be very simple to split the tank in half if it is collapsible. In order to accomplish this, loosen the bolt holding the drum pulley in place and handle the clamps—bolts or latches—that are positioned all around the circumference. The tank will then "fall apart" into two halves.
If your tanks aren’t separable, you’ll need to "sweat." These tanks are precisely sawed along the weld seam using a hacksaw. After the repair, bolts and silicone sealant resistant to moisture are used to secure the halves together.
The portion of the tank containing the drum is used for additional work. You have to take out and set aside the metal tank. There will be a plastic component in front of you, with the seal and bearings in the center.
With a standard slotted screwdriver, the seal can be removed. Since the rubber band cannot be reused, don’t be afraid to tear it. Use a hammer and punch to knock the bearings out of the tank. It is crucial to proceed cautiously to avoid causing harm to the seat.
Make sure to clean the seat of any rust, debris, and shavings before putting in new bearings. A hammer and a punch are also used to press the metal rings. The seal is positioned above.
Applying a specialized waterproof grease to newly installed bearings and seals is recommended as it can prolong their lifespan.
The washing machine is then put together. The pulley must first be fixed before the drum can be installed. The tank’s two halves are then secured together. It is preferable to use a silicone sealant that is resistant to moisture on the edges of the container, even if it is collapsible, in order to ensure reliability.
You can reassemble the heating element, drive belt, counterweights, panels, and other components that were taken out during disassembly after inserting the tank into the housing. It is advisable to use new clamps to tighten all pipes. Run a test wash when you’re done and observe how the machine operates. The knocking and noise should cease.
Although tightening a washing machine’s drum can initially seem difficult, it is manageable with the appropriate technique. In order to avoid excessive vibrations and possible damage during operation, it is imperative to make sure the drum is securely fastened. You can avoid having to make larger repairs later on by performing routine maintenance and paying quick attention to any strange movements or noises.
Never forget to turn off the water and electricity supplies before making any changes. Seeking advice from an expert is a sensible decision if you feel uneasy about the procedure or if the problem appears complicated. They can offer a comprehensive evaluation and guarantee that everything is adjusted in accordance with the manufacturer’s requirements.
In conclusion, caring for the drum of your washing machine will prolong its life and help to maintain its performance. You can resolve small problems and maintain the smooth operation of your machine with a little perseverance and the appropriate equipment. When in doubt, don’t be afraid to ask for professional assistance—it’sfrequentlythe best way to guarantee a job well done.